London Church History Walk

November 6, 2009
Our London church history walk with Brother Warwick and his wife was very enjoyable and enlightening. It was neat to visit a side of London I haven’t experienced. I also appreciated being able to see firsthand sites we’ve been studying in religion class that were of such significance in early church history.
We began our walk at the picturesque, old Bunhill Cemetery, across the street from the Wesley Chapel. My eyes widened upon being informed of the fact that the cemented ground upon which we were standing as Brother Warwick began to speak to us, was used hundreds of years ago as a massive burial site for plague victims. It was kind of horrific and weird to think about.
The location of this graveyard was significant in that it resided outside the city walls of London. As such, the area was well-known for attracting the attention and gathering of non-conformists who found more freedom to preach and express their ideas here, outside the jurisdiction of the city. Bunhill Cemetery is actually a nonconformist graveyard. Among those buried here, it was neat to see the graves such historic figures as George Fox, founder of the Quaker faith, Isaac Watts, the great hymn writer, William Blake, the poet and writer, John Bunion, author of Pilgrim’s Progress, Daniel Defoe, author of Robison Crusoe, and even the renowned John Milton, author of Paradise Lost. Clearly this areas’ tolerance for non-conformist ideals contributed to its being prepared for the coming of the message of the restored gospel of Christ long before those early missionaries arrived here.
We next went over to the Wesley Chapel, a Methodist place of worship. It was a beautiful building inside and out, and modest in its presentation. I was impressed by the feel of the atmosphere there. As Brother Warwick briefly spoke to us of John Wesley’s history, beliefs, and contribution to bringing about the Methodist faith, I realized just what an incredible man he really was. His humility and emphasis on love, forgiveness, and the importance of developing a personal relationship with God, really are not so different from our faith, contrary to what I had presupposed Methodist beliefs to entail. His use of itinerate preaching and “open-field” teaching were employed just about a century later by our own Mormon missionaries.
As we walked down the streets, I tried to imagine the early missionaries doing the same. It was neat to visit Tabernacle Square, where Heber C. Kimball, Wilford Woodruff, and George A. Smith came to preach the gospel. I noted with interest the significance once again of this preaching area outside the jurisdiction of the city of London, which is why their first baptism, Henry Conner, brought them here. I looked around the square and could picture people opening up the even their fourth story windows and leaning out to listen to the message of these diligent men.
Visiting Ironmonger Rd. where the missionaries took up residence and established mission headquarters for a while, just across the street from Conner, was also interesting. Not much of the street is left. It was here that evil spirits once again attacked the missionaries in desperate efforts to halt the work. Overall, I sure learned a lot and had an enjoyable time, despite the cold, visiting the church history sites and exploring another area of London.

Shakespeare Issue Paper

All Isn’t Always Well That Ends Well

In All’s Well That Ends Well, Shakespeare derives the play’s title from Helena’s statement of its central theme; “All’s well that ends well; still the fine’s the crown. Whate’er the course, the end is the renown” (4.4.35-36). This statement presents an insightful issue of ethics. Although his characters condone the belief that the ‘end justifies the means,’ Shakespeare clearly mocks this human folly through the true nature of the ‘end’ with which each character is provided.
Helena, as the heroine, especially exemplifies this paradox. She employs the bed trick to secretly have a child by her husband, Bertram. Because she is married to Bertram, Helena’s actions are not technically immoral. Her deceit, however, presents them as ethically questionable. She feels justified because in her mind, ‘all ends well;’ she is at last with the man she loves. Bertram, however, expresses “I’ll love her dearly” only on condition that Helena saves his reputation by clearing his name (5.3.316). The means by which Helena and Bertram each arrive at the end of the play indicate that their marriage is sealed by deceit. The theme’s statement of their future as a “happy ending” can thus be nothing short of blatant mockery, because the end is not as “well” as the characters believe.
Diana, who aids in the bed trick, also feels that a satisfactory end result justifies the means by which it was obtained. After agreeing to meet Bertram, where she and Helena will switch places, Diana expresses to the audience, “in this disguise, I think’t no sin, to cozen him that would unjustly win” (4.2.35). Her role in Helena’s plan is morally questionable, as she finds herself pretending to compromise her virtue and honor in order to save them. Through this particular example, Shakespeare creates a moral puzzle as Diana has no apparent alternative than using deceit to protect herself. Bertram’s status and unyielding persistence to obtain what he wants leaves Diana little choice in her course of action. Things for her, however, do end well as she maintains her honor and virtue, despite the deceit involved.
In one of the lighter scenes of the play, the clown converses with the Countess and claims to have an answer that will readily satisfy any question. The generalization he makes mocks the idea that the end justifies the means for everyone. He declares, “I have an answer will serve all men;” (2.213-14). In this context, the clown is merely conversing in jest as it is his character to do so; however, comedy is often rooted in truth. Placing his boast in context of the theme then, we find the statement that “all’s well that ends well” regardless of how the end result is obtained, a mockery of its role as a universal truth that “serves all men.” Shakespeare clearly demonstrates this through the contrast in the consequences that follow the allied actions of Helena and Diana. As mentioned previously, Helena and Diana find themselves on the same, deceitful course to obtain their respective ends. Though they each believe all is well for them at the play’s conclusion, the reality of Helena’s ‘happiness’ versus Diana’s shows that the end does not necessarily justify the means for everyone.
It is also important to look at the situation from the perspective that Shakespeare’s minor characters are often given the role of expressing deeper meanings within their carefully constructed lines, such as Jaques in As You Like It and Costard in Love’s Labour’s Lost. In this play, many of the minor characters, such as the countess, king, and servants, express that a satisfactory end justifies any course taken to obtain it. In a witty verbal exchange between Lafew and the clown, Lafew asserts, “a scar nobly got, or a noble scar, is a good liv’ry of honor” (4.5.100). This simple statement supports the theme as a belief of all the characters. In this particular example, significance resides in the honor associated with the scar rather than in how it was obtained. Similarly, the king expresses this belief in that he does not care whether Bertram and the other lords fight for the French or the Italians. Rather, he is only concerned that they discover experience in fighting. Yet another example lies in the Countess’s support for Helena’s decision to pursue Bertram, despite growing awareness of his despicable character. The characters’ flawed logic found in each of these examples demonstrates the play’s theme as a mockery and further perpetrates its irony.
Parolles provides a surprising yet critical parallel to Helena and Bertram in portraying the theme that the end justifies the means. When Bertram’s companions conspire to trick Parolles and display his true colors as a coward and a traitor, they also use deceit to ensnare the deceitful. The audience despises both Bertram and Parolles for their prideful, insincere, and undeserving natures. As a result, they feel the ethically questionable means by which each is brought to his respective end are fully justified. Though he does not love Helena, Bertram ends the play relatively well as he is able to maintain his reputation and honor. Never mind such an end was derived from a conscious decision to commit what he thought was adultery with Diana. Parolles, on the other hand, arrives at the play’s conclusion completely bereft of reputation. As these characters seem to have gotten what they deserve, the audience finds little reason to question whether the courses taken to arrive at such results are morally justifiable.
The king voices the characters’ opinion that “all yet seems well, and if it end so meet, the bitter past, more welcome is the sweet” (5.3.333-334); yet, Shakespeare’s readers can little deny that the play’s resolution is not so “well” as the characters believe. The play’s title as this theme surfaces all throughout its course in the lines of both the major and minor characters. Each views the end as all that matters, regardless of their actions leading up to such consequences. Differing consequences of the same course of action mock the idea that this theme is universal for all men; Diana, Helena, and Parolles were all involved in means of deceit, yet each ended with a completely different result. Many of the characters, such as Helena, express that all has ended well; yet the plays’ conclusion leaves a taste that is bitter sweet. The irony with which Shakespeare concludes his play mocks the characters’ belief that the end justifies the means.

A Trip to the Globe Theatre

On Friday, I had the opportunity to attend the Royal Shakespeare Company’s performance of Shakespeare’s Love’s Labour’s Lost at the Globe Theatre. As their season closed on Saturday, this was my last opportunity to experience one of these incredible masterpieces in such a neat and historic atmosphere. I absolutely loved it!
It was the first time I hadn’t read a Shakespeare play before watching it performed on stage. It was a very different experience. I read the first few scenes and a synopsis of the play before coming, and was pleased to find I had no trouble following the plot or the characters. The actors were absolutely phenomenal. They each got so into their parts and had really neat costumes. They were all so funny and made the comedy a very enjoyable treat. At the play’s conclusion, I realized my cheeks were literally sore from smiling so wide throughout the entire performance.
One aspect of the experience that was particularly interesting for me was my recognition of some of the performers. The actress that played the role of the Princess was the same that had played Helena in the performance we saw of All’s Well That Ends Well. I didn’t like her in that performance, but was thrilled to find that she really is an incredible actress after this one. I also recognized the man that played one of the old scholars as the actor that played Leonardo DaVinci in the movie Ever After. I thoroughly enjoyed every moment of this hilarious comedy. The icing on the cake of the experience was resting my arms against the edge of the center stage as a groundling. That is where the play really comes to life as it unfolds before your eyes. The Princess and her ladies even offered a few of us grapes, apple slices, and cheese from their picnic at the intermission. The ending to the play is rather bitter sweet, as the happiness of each of the couples must be postponed a year while the Princess mourns the unexpected loss of her father; however, the loyalty and commitment of the lords is touching. I enjoyed this play probably the most of any Shakespeare performance I have yet seen, and that is really saying something.

A Walk in the Park

Although London is a very busy, noisy city, there are incredible parks that provide an enjoyable get-away. I have loved exploring the beautiful Regents Park, Holland Park, and of course my next-door-neighbor, Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens. Each provides their own unique charm. Upon strolling through each one, I was struck every time by what a peaceful, serene atmosphere can be found just off the streets of a city that is always so loud, crowded, and so in motion. It was absolutely wonderful to slow down, enjoy nature, and breathe the fresh air while my mind was free to roam.
Exploring Hyde Park was especially helpful for me, as I go running it almost every morning, and was previously always getting lost amongst the meandering paths and trails. I definitely want to return to Speaker’s Corner on a Sunday to hear the radical speakers that supposedly frequent the famous preacher’s soap box. The Apsley House and Wellington Arch were really neat. I thought Rotten Row was a strange name for the dirt path lining the southern end of the park. The Holocaust Memorial Garden had the most gorgeous flowers. Surrounded by vibrant colors, I had to take a moment to sit on a bench and breathe deeply of the incredible fragrances. Probably my favorite part of the park is running along the bank of the Serpentine at sunrise; the experience is irreplaceable.
Holland was a neat little park that is a lot closer to the Centre than I thought. Along the way, I was enchanted by the Holland Park mews, a street where all of the houses used to be mews, or stables and servants quarters for the mansions they served. The stables are now garages and each of the houses on that unique street is super expensive. Once in the actual park, I walked around exploring. I couldn’t believe my eyes when four large, exquisite peacocks strutted across the path in front of me as I made my way to the Japanese Kyoto Gardens. There is the most beautiful waterfall there with a bridge of stepping stones across its base. It’s hard to believe this quite, picturesque retreat is just blocks in either direction from some of London’s busy thoroughfares. I thought the concept of dog toilettes throughout the park was pretty funny. I also enjoyed walking down Kensington Church Street at the walk’s conclusion.
I went to Regents Park a few weeks later than I had wanted to; fortunately the roses, though beginning to die, were still gorgeous. I never knew there were so many different kinds of roses! It was cool to catch a glimpse of the London Zoo; the walkway past the animal enclosures runs along a little river and the scenery is beautiful—what an atmosphere for a zoo! I took the extra time to ascend Primose Hill. It seems to rise up out of nowhere; you get to the top, turn around, and are shocked at the view you have of the city of London in almost every direction. This park is enormous and so pleasant in any area of it you find yourself. I thought it was cute that there is both a boating lake and a children’s boating pond. There are an unbelievable amount of ducks and geese, and most of them seemed to be sitting leisurely in the numerous vacant rowboats. One thing that really struck me about all these parks is how many people come to walk, run, socialize or even just enjoy the fresh air, regardless of the time of day. It’s really neat to see.

Theatre Walk

The theatre walk, though extremely long, was a great way to explore a significant portion of London that is really popular for shopping, theatres, and city culture in general. I had no idea Leicester Square is so close to Trafalgar Square! It was fun to wander along the Thames, down the strand, through Covent Garden, Piccadilly Circus, and Chinatown, and up and down the crowded, bustling streets just soaking in the whole experience and learning lots. I love history, so seeing Cleopatra’s Needle, the 60 foot obelisk near Waterloo Bridge was fascinating! I had never heard of the Somerset House before, let alone that it was the residence of Elizabeth I for a time, along with James I, Charles I, and Charles II. It is huge and beautiful—I definitely want to return to visit the art galleries within, and maybe even for lunch on the balcony overlooking the Thames. While walking along the strand, it was neat to see all of the different theatres, and I definitely noted where the Lion King is performed as it is one of the shows I want to see while I’m here. I thought the location of the church of St. Mary le Strand was strange as it seems to be right in the median of two major streets.
Covent Garden was amazing! I will definitely be returning to get a better look. At a café below the ground level in a courtyard you can look down upon in the market, a man was singing “Ave Maria” and entertaining the crowd by engaging them in his performance. Buskers are everywhere in this area, which I think really adds to the whole cultural experience. I also want to return to visit the London Transport Museum and Theatre Museum.
I loved the Charlie Chaplin statue in Leicester Square. We asked a girl to take our picture, and she looked really confused until she saw I was handing her a camera. She didn’t speak English—oops! This square has great deals on tickets to any show you could want to see. Nearby in Trafalgar Square, we took pictures mounting and sliding down the backs of the lion statues in the square’s center. Continuing on, we found several embassies, including the Texas Embassy; the only one in the world! I was pretty excited, because I lived in Texas for more than half my life. I also love all the statues everywhere, ranging from honoring historically significant people to mythological masterpieces. Piccadilly Circus is incredibly crowded and provided a unique experience all on its own.
I’ve never been to any Chinatown before, so I was fascinated walking down the street with incredible smells wafting out of restaurants on either side. Red lamps were strung above us, down the length of the street. By the conclusion of the walk, I was exhausted but had such a great experience. I feel so much more confident just exploring that large area of London now. It was so neat to get out there and really experience the city and culture.

Cambridge

While in Cambridge, I had the neat opportunity of visiting the King’s College Chapel on a guided tour, and then returned later to attend the evensong. The architectural beauty of the fan-vaulted ceiling and the vibrant glory of the Flemish-crafted stain glass windows left my mouth wide open in awe. For a chapel, the spectacular structure is huge, and even feels like a small cathedral from the inside.
Despite Oliver Cromwell’s stationing of his army at Cambridge at one point during England’s Civil War, the stained glass windows escaped destruction primarily because of their portrayal of solely Biblical scenes, rather than depictions of saints and angels which were offensive to these Puritanical extremists. Our guide told us today’s cloudy sky allowed us to see the true colors of the gorgeous stained glass. The altar piece is quite different than those of other churches I have visited. It was simply a long table covered with a historically significant cloth and had two simple candles upon it. On a panel behind it is Ruben’s “Adoration of the Magi,’ an absolutely beautiful masterpiece that really added to the gentle beauty and peaceful splendor of the atmosphere.
The evensong was a very enjoyable experience. I sat in the quire, and followed the service along in the hymnal, anthem, and service books in front of me. The choir consisted of sixteen young boys, ages seven to eleven, who are educated and trained according to age-ole tradition, as well as sixteen young men, possibly about sixteen to twenty years old. Their voices are absolutely remarkable. I looked up at the magnificent ceiling, took a deep breath, and smiled despite myself as the phenomenal acoustics allowed the rich, glorious singing to resonate in my ears as it traversed my being from head to toe.
After a series of hymns and prayers by the minister and responsorial chair, one of the little boys read from the Old Testament, from the respective side of the lectern. Following an anthem and more singing, a minister performed a New Testament reading, but from the other side of the lectern. Amidst the concluding singing and prayers, where in the minister asked for a particular blessing on their director’s wife’s new baby as well as the soul of one of the college dean’s, whose funeral was today, the congregation turned to face the altar and repeats a statement of beliefs. The service concludes with the minister’s blessing and the organ provides the cue that the choir and then congregation may exit. Throughout the service, the congregation was to stand during the singing, and sit during the reading. The overall experience was very neat. It was hard to rip away my eyes from the beautiful chapel upon exiting.

Dove Cottage

“I wandered lonely as a cloud
That floats on high o’er Vales and Hills,
When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host of golden Daffodils
Beside the Lake, beneath the trees
Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.”

Wordsworth wrote this beautiful poem after a walk with his sister Dorothy on April 15, 1802 and is particularly fitting as one of the featured poems at this serene, peaceful home of the creative genius. William Wordsworth lived with his sister in Dove Cottage, which then became a home for his family as well after he married Mary in 1802. The cottage had originally been a pub called the “Dove and Olive Bough,” which explains the name Dove Cottage. I have often wondered how Wordsworth found the means to work as a poet at his own leisure, and still support a family at such a time in which he lived. I learned, however, that he was left nine hundred pounds by an old friend who sought to encourage his work. William Wordsworth was definitely a free spirit; he said desks were instruments of torture, and only accepted the position of Poet Laureate on condition that Queen Victoria hold him under no constraints to write his poetry. Ironically, in the seven years he held that position, beginning in 1843, he didn’t write a single line of poetry.

I also learned some fascinating facts about the lifestyle of people in that time period. The expression “burning the candle at both ends” comes from the tallow candles used to light the rooms. A reed was laced through the center of the candle that it could be lit at both ends of the candle in addition to just the candle itself. Brushing teeth was accomplished using Dogwood, where the salt served as an abrasive and the soot as a polisher. Apparently it wasn’t very effective, however, because William’s sister, Dorothy had lost all her teeth by age thirty, and were replaced with a wooden set. The reason canopies were placed over beds was to keep spiders and other unwanted specimens from falling on the sleeping. Mary Wordsworth covered the walls of her children’s rooms with newspaper to provide additional warmth. The Wordsworth family ate two meals of porridge most days, a tradition that visiting Sir Walter Scott did not particularly enjoy. He would apparently slip out of his window into the back garden early in the morning and go to the Swan Hotel for a “proper breakfast” before returning for the dreaded porridge.